The first time I heard about the city of Cologne, was when I had a French teacher who told a joke in the first class that went like this: “I am from Cologne, but do not think that this means I am always smelling so good.” By train from the north, you cross the Rhine river to arrive at Köln Hbf (The main railway station in Cologne, as we might call it in English). The Rhine is a muscular river and the bridge bulges with iron too.
You are surrounded by what looks like an endless convention center of buildings since Cologne must compete for business with its northern rival Düsseldorf in everything… “Warum gibt es Köln?” wonders the Düsseldorfer… And while Düsseldorf remains the greater convention host city of the two (even rivaling Frankfurt) there is one thing Cologne has indisputable bragging rights over in North Rhine–Westphalia and beyond, and that is its cathedral, der Kölner Dom, or simply: Der Dom.
Getting There
As you make your way through the mass of people at the station and past the inevitable mass of retail shops, food shops, and super heavily attended bathrooms that cost fifty Euro cents to use, (but you have to use at least one euro in the machine and you only get change in the form of a barcode voucher you can only use in selected railway station shops … or another visit to the toilet) eventually, you emerge outside and you are already in the shadow of the Dom.
Your eyes are forced skyward, to the heavens (appropriately) and all the crass plastic corporate signage is blasted from your mind. In 1857, a famous poet-Düsseldorfer, Heinrich Heine, was once asked why gothic cathedrals don’t get built anymore. His answer was: “In those days men had convictions, whereas we moderns only have opinions, and something more than an opinion is needed to build a Gothic cathedral.” And convictions over six hundred years in the case of Der Dom, which started to be built in 1248 and was not finished with its iconic twin spires until 1880.
History of the Tallest Twin Spired Church
From the 4th century on, the site had Christian structures, including the “oldest cathedral” commissioned by Maternus, the first bishop of Cologne. Additionally, a free-standing baptistery from the 7th century, situated at the eastern end of the current cathedral, was demolished in the 9th century to make way for the construction of the second cathedral.
The Cologne Cathedral is affiliated with the Catholic Church and is officially designated as “Hohe Domkirche Sankt Petrus” (Cathedral Church of Saint Peter). It serves as the seat of the Archbishop of Cologne and the administrative center for the Archdiocese of Cologne.
Construction began in 1248 but faced interruptions around 1560, leaving it unfinished. Renewed efforts to complete the project began approximately in 1814, with proper funding secured in the 1840s. The bells were installed in the 1870s. The largest bell is St. Petersglocke. The cathedral was ultimately finished according to its original medieval plan in 1880.
Guided by King Frederick William IV of Prussia, donations were collected to finance the completion of the Cologne Cathedral, culminating in a celebratory event. At that time, the Cathedral had a height of 157 metres, making it the tallest building in the world.
Initially conceived by medieval builders to house the reliquary of the Three Kings and to serve as a place of worship for the Holy Roman Emperor, Cologne Cathedral, despite its incomplete state during the medieval era, evolved into a unified masterpiece of exceptional intrinsic value.
It stands as a compelling testament to the enduring strength of Christian belief in both medieval and modern Europe. In Cologne, only the telecommunications tower surpasses the cathedral in height.
Architectural Features
The architectural layout of Cologne Cathedral closely mirrors that of Amiens Cathedral, including the style and the height-to-width proportion of the central nave. Following the typical Gothic cathedral pattern, the ground plan adopts the shape of a Latin Cross. Featuring two aisles on each side, the cathedral provides structural support for one of the world’s tallest Gothic vaults, nearly rivaling that of Beauvais Cathedral, a significant portion of which unfortunately collapsed.
Internally, the medieval choir displays a more diverse and less mechanized design compared to the 19th-century additions. It showcases a French-style arrangement with a lofty arcade, a delicate narrow triforium gallery illuminated by windows, and intricate tracery seamlessly merging with the windows above.
The clerestory windows, towering and retaining some original figurative glass in the lower sections, contribute to the overall aesthetic. Vertical shafts extend uninterrupted from the floor to their capitals at the spring of the vault, unifying the entire structure.
Despite desecration by French Revolutionary troops, the choir remarkably retains many of its original fittings, including intricately carved stalls. A substantial stone statue of St. Christopher gazes down towards the former entrance of the cathedral before its late 19th-century completion.
The nave features numerous 19th-century stained glass windows, with a notable set of five on the south side known as the Bayernfenster, gifted by Ludwig I of Bavaria. These windows prominently embody the painterly German style prevalent during that period.
World War II
During World War Two, it was hit by fourteen bombs, and while it was damaged badly, the building itself held together. One of the most popular types of postcards available in the souvenir shops are black and white images of the bombed Dom.
As you approach through the police cars and their dogs and your eyes keep scanning up the stairs scattered with fellow tourists, you can try and imagine the level of conviction required by pre-industrial workers putting this huge sculpture-like building together.
The closer you come, the more difficult it is to take in, and you start thinking in the back of your mind that it might just be a movie set, a stage-set wooden cut-out, or some kind of projection. It tricks your eyes and your mind. But you can turn your head away and renew your perspective at any time … not so inside. Here, it really gets overwhelming.
The Notre Dame and the Sacre Coeur don’t match up to the level of grandiosity. The Gothic pillars and the archways drag your eyes in different directions; it’s possible to marvel at everything around you, and then just take a single step to your left or right and these archways and their new alignments re-introduce you to whole new vistas on what is still essentially the same scene. After fifteen minutes, you have to sit down or leave, your eyes and mind become drunk on it.
It’s almost a relief to get back outside and see a plain unadorned sky. But if you still have the energy, the crypts below are also worth a look. There are some fantastic pieces of medieval gold and silverwork, including a ceremonial sword that must be seen to be believed. The whole reason there is a cathedral here at all is kept down there: the crypt of the Three Kings, or the Three Wise Men.
UNESCO World Heritage Site
The Cologne Cathedral was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. This iconic structure is celebrated for its significance in German Catholicism and its exemplary Gothic architecture and holds the distinction of being Germany’s most visited landmark, drawing an average of 20,000 visitors daily.
Standing at a height of 157 meters (515 feet), Cologne Cathedral boasts the title of the tallest twin-spired church globally, the second tallest church in Europe (after Ulm Minster), and the third tallest church worldwide.
As the largest Gothic church in Northern Europe, it features the second-tallest spires, flying buttresses and massive stone columns contributing to its impressive façade, which is the largest of any church globally. The three portals of the west façade are the Magi Portal, the Main Portal and St. Peter’s Portal. The choir section displays a remarkable height-to-width ratio of 3.6:1, unparalleled among medieval churches.
The Cathedral among the City Landscape
However, in 2004, it faced the threat of being included in the “World Heritage in Danger” list, uniquely among Western sites. This was due to proposed high-rise constructions in the vicinity that could have adversely affected its visual integrity. Fortunately, in 2006, the cathedral was removed from the “in danger” list, following regulatory measures to restrict the heights of structures surrounding it.
As a revered World Heritage Site and home to the Shrine of the Three Kings, Cologne Cathedral is a significant draw for tourists and pilgrims alike. It ranks among the oldest and most crucial pilgrimage sites in Northern Europe.
Visiting the Cologne Cathedral and South Tower Ascent
Exploring the cathedral is free of charge unless you opt for a guided personal or group tour. For an enchanting panoramic view of Cologne, visitors were previously able to ascend the southern tower, standing at approximately 97 meters, via a spiral staircase and a metal staircase.
Important Note:
Due to the current security situation, the cathedral will only open for church services until further notice. The tower ascent and the cathedral treasury are also closed until further notice.
If you are lucky enough to be around on Christmas Day or Sylvester, you’ll get to hear Dicke Pitter (Fat Peter) the twenty-four tone bell of the cathedral, just to add to the sensory overload. Learning German can be a sensory overload too … unless you’re smart about it! So … why not try SmarterGerman!
FAQs
Here are also some of the questions people ask about the Cologne Cathedral
Why is Cologne Cathedral so famous?
Cologne Cathedral is renowned for its stunning Gothic architecture, intricate detailing, and impressive size. It houses the Shrine of the Three Wise Men, which is said to contain the relics of the Magi, making it a significant pilgrimage site. The cathedral’s construction spanned centuries, adding to its historical and cultural significance.
Is the Cologne Cathedral Catholic or Protestant?
The Cologne Cathedral is Catholic. It has been a Catholic cathedral since its inception and remains a symbol of Catholicism in the region.
Why did Cologne Cathedral take so long?
Construction of Cologne Cathedral spanned over six centuries, from the foundation stone laid in 1248 to its completion in 1880. The reasons for the extended timeline include interruptions due to wars, lack of funds, changes in architectural styles, and the immense complexity of building such a grand structure.
Who was the master builder of the Cologne Cathedral?
The master builder associated with the Cologne Cathedral is believed to be Gerhard von Rile, who was responsible for the initial phases of construction. However, given the extended timeline, multiple architects and builders contributed to the cathedral’s construction over the centuries.
What are 3 interesting facts about the Cologne Cathedral?
- The Cologne Cathedral is one of the largest cathedrals in Europe, with its twin spires dominating the city’s skyline.
- It houses the Shrine of the Three Kings, a gold sarcophagus believed to contain the remains of the Biblical Magi.
- The cathedral miraculously survived bombing raids during World War II, badly damaged but standing tall amidst the heavily damaged city.
Why is the cathedral in Cologne black?
The dark color of the Cologne Cathedral is primarily due to the effects of weathering and pollution on the sandstone from which it is constructed. Over centuries, exposure to the elements has led to a darkening of the stone of the present cathedral, giving it a distinctive appearance.
Summing Up: The Cologne Cathedral
When visiting Cologne, discover the city’s allure through the Gothic-style cathedral’s historical roots and architectural brilliance.
As a renowned monument with outstanding universal value, the cathedral stands as a powerful testimony on the Cologne skyline, recognized as a World Heritage Site.